Asifi Masjid, Hussainabad, Lucknow

Reflecting the beauty and grandeur of an era gone by, Asifi Masjid still stands as one of the grand mosques of Lucknow. It was built by Nawab Asif-ud-daula and designed by the famous architect Kifayat-ullah. Asifi Masjid is a part of the complex of Bada Imambara and lies at the north-western side of it’s courtyard. It is elevated at a great height above ground level. A flight of around 28 stairs leads to the mosque which further comprises two grand prayer halls. Prayers are offered here on Fridays as well as on festivals like Eid. These halls have eleven arched-doorways at the front face of the building, where the one at the centre is larger than the rest. The huge minarets and domes of the facade, add stars to the grandness of this mosque. Asifi Masjid is constructed on column and arch foundation. The staircase that we see now was not built at the time of the construction of this mosque but later, by the Britishers when they had captured the complex during the mutiny of sepoys. Initially, this mosque had rooms beneath it, along with the staircase in it’s interior, which lead to the upper floor of the facade. During the revolt of 1857, freedom fighters used the same rooms for hiding their arms and ammunitions but it was later when the Britishers came to know about it and decided to shut them permanently. ‘During the years 1857-1895, the whole complex of Bada Imambara was confiscated by the Britishers. But it was finally declared as the Government’s property in the year 1895 by the Britishers’, states Mr. Roshan Taqui, a prominent historian of Awadh.

Asifi Masjid is renowned for it’s structural strength till date. Years back when the entire complex was seized by the Britishers, they tried to collapse it by building a water channel adjacent to the west wall of the mosque and slowly draining it’s water deeply into it’s foundation. But the sturdy structure didn’t collapse and thus, all their efforts went in vain. Moreover, huge mortars and guns were also dragged on it’s floors during the mutiny of 1857. It was built along with the other units of the Bada Imambara in order to provide food and work to the famine-stricken natives of Awadh. The construction work of the mosque was completed in the year 1794. The ultimate beauty of the mosque with Indo-Islamic structural design with domes and huge minarets has never failed to bias it’s visitors. ‘It’s a magnificent building with such wonderful sculptured domes and minarets’, says Ms. Kritika Kaushik, a student. ‘Such a serene place to offer prayers to the Lord! Connecting with Him becomes so easy once you are here’, says Mohd Asad, a serviceman. The present state of the mosque isn’t up-to-the-mark. The plaster of the walls of the facade is continuously shrinking and cracking. And the paint on outer face of the structure is blackening and fading with time.

Satkhanda, Hussainabad, Lucknow

The word ‘Satkhanda’ means Seven-Storeyed. Initially, this building was intended to comprise seven storeys but it’s construction work was later abandoned and thus, only 4 level of it could be completed. Incomplete but nevertheless splendour of heritage architecture, Satkhnada, a red-brick watch-tower, constructed by King Mohammed Ali Shah, is situated near the Chota Imambara. Satkhanda, a four-storey tower, has got it’s architectural design influenced from ‘The Leaning Tower of Pisa’, one of the seven wonders of world. The tower is constructed in a blend of Greek and Islamic architecture. It’s framework and pediments reflect Greek structural design whereas arches of the gates and windows show influence of Islamic structural design. The height of the octagonal ground floor of this structure is almost 10 feet, making it the highest storey of this tower. One of the distinctive feature of this structure is that each of it’s successive storey has been constructed in the decreasing order of height and breadth of it’s base storey. The total height of Satkhanda is 35 feet approximately. The tower has numerous triple-arched huge windows and compartments. A flight of spiral steps leads to the different storeys of the building. From the uppermost storey of the facade, one can see the beauty of the city’s adjacent area.

The construction work of Satkhanda was initiated by King Mohammed Ali Shah during his reign in the years 1837-1842. He built it as a watch-tower with an intention of having the bird’s eye view of the old city area of Lucknow along with it’s royal buildings. There is also a myth about the building that it was constructed for having a sight of chand for Eid. ‘It’s said that the construction of this structure was stopped as the king had hurt his leg while climbling down the stairs of this structure while it was being constructed. And since then, people started treating it as a bad omen and left it unfinished. But this is a fake rumoured story as Mohammed Ali Shah was 65 years old when he was elected as the king of Awadh and at the same time he was not fit with his hands and legs, therefore, not being in a condition to climb the stairs of the tower’, states Roshan Taqui, the prominent historian of Awadh. ‘It’s exquisite designs and marvelous layout makes it a must-see edifice of Lucknow’, says Brijesh Yadav, a student. ‘Being lured by just seeing the unfinished tower, has left me wondering as to how amazing it would look when it’s renovation gets completed. Waah Lucknow!’, says Geeta Srivastava, a home-maker. Inspite of the fact that the renovation work has been taken up and guards have been assigned the duty to look after the safety of the edifice, the tower still stands deserted with just animals prowling around. The pathway to it is uneven and dirty. Adding to the grievance, the backside of the tower is treated as a dumpsite for household wastes and is also a safe place for drug traffickers.

Bhool Bhulaiyya, Bara Imambara, Hussainabad, Lucknow

One of the world’s most confusing maze, popularly known as Bhool Bhulaiyya, was built by Nawab Asif-ud-daula in the year 1784. This lofty and touristy labyrinthe is a momentous part of the complex of Bada Imambara. The way to the left of the central hall of Bada Imambara leads to Bhool Bhulaiyya, which is a series of hundreds of interconnected darkling-narrow stairway passages present above the hall of Bada Imambara, where different paths lead astray the visitors by directing them to the dead-ends, rooftop or back to the entrance and exit points. It is so perplexing that the right path seems to be the wrong one and vice-versa, portraying the secret of life. These dark marginal lanes can make anyone feel lost while searching for the right paths. But penetrating sunlight from the various facade openings like rooftop, arched-windows etc., do help the visitors in minifying the mystery of this puzzling maze and those who still find this maze very confusing can take the help of the guides who are always available there during the visiting hours. ‘This maze has a series of around 489 indistinguishable door-less galleries and hundrerds of staircases’, tells the guide, Mr. Ahmad. Another important feature of this maze that makes it renowned wordwide, is its incredible acoustics. The architectural design of this maze has been implemented in such a way that it makes room for good air ventilation and penetration of sunlight. When one whispers or burns a match-stick near the walls of the passage, then the same sound can be heard from the several twists and turns of the same passage leaving the visitors completely astonished. Furthermore, the same maze leads to the serene rooftop of the courtyard of Bada Imambara. From the front windows of the balcony, one can have a clear vision of the visitors upto the main gate and the road, which enhances the security as well as the architectural wonder of this edifice. Most of the visitors find it as the best part of the building as they can have the bird’s eye view of the various other monuments like Rumi Darwaza, Asifi Masjid, Hussainabad Clock Tower and the busy streets of the old area of Lucknow as well. There is also a myth about a blocked tunnel that once served as a secret underground passageway to the other cities.

It was Nawab Asif-ud-daula who had got this structure built during the years 1784-1794, in order to provide food and work to the famine-stricken people of Awadh. The design of this structure was drafted by Kifayat-ullah. And with this initiative, Nawab succeeded in providing work to about 22,000 people at a time. It is said that during the daytime ordinary people used to build up this edifice while noblemen, who did not wanted to be recognised as labourers during daylight were called after the sunset to demolish the structures raised. It took them 10 years to build Bada Imambara and the estimated cost of the construction of this immense edifice came to Rs. 1 crore, which was a huge amount back then. This famous edifice of Lucknow has the largest number of tourists visiting it every year, making it the most popular and hence, the most visited monument of Lucknow. ‘Beaming of sunlight through the various openings of the facade, inside the symmetrical corridors showcase the amazing view of Bhool Bhulaiyya’, says Mr. Prashant Sonkar, an avid photographer. ‘This is something I haven’t ever experienced in my life before. I would certainly recommend my friends to visit this amazing labyrinthe atleast once. It serves a wonderful example of brilliant architectural skills of those times’, says Ms. Akriti Rastogi, a tourist from Mumbai. Insincerity of the visitors towards their country’s proud historical testaments is posing them a great threat. Doodling or etching names, numbers and other love and hate details on the walls of the galleries not only causes irreparable damage to the walls of the edifice but also to the cultural heritage of the country as well. People should realise that these monuments are a part of their rich cultural legacy and instead of blaming others for the harm that is done to such monuments, they should individually come forward to conserve them.

Bada Imambara, Hussainabad, Lucknow

“Jis Ko Na De Maula
Tis Ko De Asif-ud-daula”

Bada Imambara was built by Nawab Asif-ud-daula in the year 1784. It is also known as Asifi Imambara in the honour of the builder. Bada Imambara is admired worldwide for it’s unique architectural design, grandiosity and puzzling staircase labyrinth. The main hall of this complex is 162 feet long and 53 feet 6 inches wide. It’s considered to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world. The main hall has a whispering gallery on top on all the four sides. When someone whispers, burns a match stick or tears a paper at some point close to the wall, the same sound gets reflected round the wall of the gallery. This echoed sound can be distinctly heard from one end of the gallery to another. European decoratives such as chandeliers, mirrors, lamp stands, etc add stars to the beauty of this hall. What actually amazes the people who visit this vaulted hall is it’s arched roof, which is constructed without the use of iron beams! This structure is more than 200 years old and it was even used as an arsenal years back. Huge mortars and guns were dragged on it’s floors during the mutiny of 1857. But surprisingly not even a single brick has fallen from the vast vault. It also serves as a mausoleum for Nawab Asif-ud-daula. ‘The exact name of Nawab is Asif-ud-daula but it was later when it was diluted as Asaf-ud-daula by the European writers’, says Mr. Roshan Taqui, an eminent historian of Awadh. On the sides of the main hall are two octagonal compartments. The one on the east has windows and balconies (Jharoka) while the other on the west has a ribbed vault that seems like lines on a melon fruit. ‘The hall on the west also houses the taazia of old woman (also famous as budhiya), who is believed to gift her land that came in the way of imambara plan to Nawab Asif-ud-daula on a condition that her taazia should be placed at the Imambara, every year during Muharram. The Nawab not only fulfilled her wish but also housed her taazia permanently in this compartment’, states Mr. Taqui.

The history of this monument dates back to the reign of Nawab Asif-ud-daula. He was not only a mere administrator of Awadh but also a friend and fraternal angel of the poor. Awadh was hit by famine in the year 1784. In order to offer employment to the famine-stricken people of Awadh, he established a trust ‘Rifa-e Aam’, with an objective of bringing relief to all. Undertaking this responsibility, Nawab Asif-ud-daula started with the construction of Bada Imambara in 1784. The design of this structure was drafted by Kifayat-ullah. And with this initiative, Nawab succeeded in providing work to about 22,000 people at a time. It is said that during the daytime ordinary people used to build up this edifice while noblemen, who did not wanted to be recognised as labourers during daylight were called after the sunset to demolish the structures raised. It took them 10 years to build Bada Imambara and the estimated cost of the construction of this immense edifice came to Rs. 1 crore, which was a huge amount back then. The complex of Asifi Imambara, which is constructed in Mughal architectural style, consists of Asifi Mosque, Bawli (water reservoir), Bhul Bhulaiya (labyrinth), Naubat Khana (where drums were beaten to announce the hour of the day) and the Main Hall. Adjacent to this complex is a huge gate which is famous as Rumi Darwaza. Entrance to the Imambara is through two successive gateways. Both of the embellished gateways are triple-arched and huge in size. The interior passage that leads to the various structures of the complex is surrounded by lush green gardens.

The state-of-the-art architecture of this building has even confused the modern architects. Moreover, the epic beauty of Indo-Islamic structural design with huge turrets, domes and minarets has always appealed the tourists. Even the directors from the Indian film industry are leaving no stone unturned in order to bring the splendid charisma of this monument on the big screen. Sudhir Mishra’s much talked about next Mehrunnisa, that is said to be starring Amitabh Bachchan, Rishi Kapoor and Chitrangada Singh is going to be shot amidst the background of Bada Imambara pretty soon. People who keep visiting different monuments in the city, find Bada Imambara as their favorite amongst all. “Never get bored of visitng this monument over and over again. Every nook and corner of this serene place tells it’s own story”, says Ms. Anumeha Tewari, an Art student. “It’s a feeling of pride for me to show this masterpiece to my relatives who have come here from a different city”, says Mr. Rajendra Mishra, a businessman. Such monuments narrate us the story of an era gone by. We should be proud of them as they are our national heritage. But the reality is a bit different. The walls of the halls are found damaged in many ways. Visitors have written their names or have scribbled gibberish with sharp objects like stones on it. Not only this, but patches of betel juice, which they spit at the facade walls, is also a common sight. And this is how ignorance can unfortunately result in minimising the glory of such a grand monument.

Chota Imambara, Hussainabad, Lucknow

Popularly known as ‘Hussainabad Imambara’ and the ‘Palace of Lights’ for it’s splendid lightening during festivals. Chota Imambara was built by King Mohammad Ali Shah during the years 1837-1842. Constructed in a blend of Indo-Islamic, Persian and Charbagh structural design, Chota Imambara proves itself to be one of the finest example of skilled architecture of that era. It is said that Alexis Soltykoff, a Russian Prince who visited Chota Imambara in 1841, called it the ‘Kremlin of India’. This structure serves as a mausoleum for the King as well as his other family members.

Entrance to the Chota Imambara is through two successive gateways. As one surpasses the former gateway (which is three storeyed), a lightening conductor arrangement is seen in the form of two huge bronze cast figures of women (on the either sides of the gate) which are connected to spikes at the top of the gate through metal chain. Moreover, a bronze fish, which acts like a wind vane is fixed at the top of the latter gateway (which is triple arched). A water channel with a hanging bridge, having gardens on either sides, makes this edifice look even more beautiful. Chota Imambara is a complex comprising a main hall, mosque, naubat khana (where naubat or the hour of the day is announced by beating drums), hamam khana (royal bath), stable for horse and two smaller replicas of Taj Mahal. ‘Beneath one of the miniatures, lies the tomb of king’s daughter Zeenat-un Nisa, who was also known as Zeenat Aliyah. The other miniature is constructed just opposite to it as a Jawab’, states Mr. Roshan Taqui, a famous historian of Awadh.

Erected on a rectangular platform, the main hall of Imambara known as Azakhana, is a place where assembly for the mourning is held. This is the same hall which houses the tomb of the King and his mother. The splendor of gleaming gold plated domes along with various turrets and minarets makes this structure visible from a distance and thus, ends up attracting people from far off places. Chota Imambara is one of the best example of calligraphy on monument. The facade has white decorative Islamic calligraphy stroked against a black background. The hall is decorated with Belgian chandeliers, golden edged mirrors (which are said to be brought from Europe), crystal glass lamp-stands, the royal throne and the red crown of the king, silver mimbar or pulpit upon which the orator is seated when he addresses the majlis, numerous taazia made up of wax, ivory, silver and perfumed sandalwood, colorful stuccos, Quran Sharif written with the tip of a grain of rice, Quran verses written in Islamic calligraphy in the shape of tiger, horse, bird etc. are adorned in wooden frames hanging on the pillars and walls of the hall. Collection of these antique artefacts is what enhances the grandeur of this monument. ‘This hall also showcases a glass fish tank which was brought from Japan at that time and an antiquate Parisian clock which was once gifted to the king’, says Mr Tahidaar Hussain, the guide.

It is the 175th anniversary of the royal building this year. However, the structure that has aged so gracefully with time, now stands abandoned. The huge entrance gates that were once magnificent are now in dilapidated condition. Furthermore, an encroachment of numerous shops and houses has eaten up two of its verandahs. But this doesn’t mean the monument doesn’t attract tourists. People from all the corners of the world come to Lucknow to visit this fabulous edifice. ‘Historic sightseeing and to have a close look at the Islamic calligraphy is why I’m here. It’s a wonderful experience’, says Mark, a US native who is presently studying Urdu in Lucknow ! ‘Small in name but big in wonder’, says Prerna Singh, a student of Lucknow Public Collegiate.